Dear Eli – Congratulations, you’ve asked me a Frequently-Asked Question and I have time.
General
So where to go / what to do in Japan? A few disclaimers – I don’t look for the best of anything. In fact I eschew it, because once something’s been identified as The Best, it becomes impossible to book, or involves standing in line with a bunch of web-influenced chatterers. I look for Solid, or Great, or Tried-And-True – or sometimes, as in hotels, for Good Enough To Stop Searching. Now that you know my philosophy, herewith my list:
Airports
I prefer to fly in to KIX, which is a short train ride to Osaka and Kyoto. Osaka is very Chicagoish, and it makes a great point of entry. It can be an ugly city, since it was rebuilt after being bombed flat, but it has a ton of great stuff to do and is the place to get your feet under you.
As to Tokyo,m I’ll take Haneda over Narita any day. Smaller, newer, closer. Great shopping. An outdoor observation platform to make you feel less trapped.
Tokyo
Let’s put it in perspective. Tokyo is bigger than New York, obviously. It’s also bigger than Canada, from a population POV. You have zero hope of “doing Tokyo” – treat it as if you’ll come back.
Hotels – I usually stay in the Metropolitan Edmont. A dull, nice business neighborhood, but an easy ride to absolutely everything. In fact if you love to walk, you can still get to a ton of stuff.
Sushi Zanmai Kagursaka – Solid, and in a very fun upper-west-side feeling ‘hood.
Ramen War! – A favorite, and no less than Oliver said it was a good pick. Have the fried chicken on the side.
The Sumida Hokusai Museum – An agreeable few hours. You will be stunned at the depth and breadth of Hokusai’s influence.
Inoue Hamono – A store specializing in ultra-traditional woodworking tools. A pilgrimage for woodworkers. Bring an interpreter.
Omoide Yokocho aka Piss Alley – named for the Salarymen and their habits when heading out for drinks and yakitori after work. It’s cleaner than it sounds – find a place, have a few beers or highballs and a lot of mystery skewers in a rooftop bar. Not like a stylish rooftop on a highrise, more like..you’ll see.
Kapabashi Street – Restaurant Supply Town – In tokyo businesses cluster – and all of the cool restaurant supply places are here. My favorite is Sato Sample – If you’re looking for a great souvenir, a really good Sampuru (plastic food replica) is one you won’t find at the airport. (Though you will find really good souvenirs at the airport. Japan is proud of its regional crafts – and even has a really fun tax policy supporting them – and showcases them at the airport.) This is also very near to
Senso-ji Temple – A First Trip Must-See – a gigantic temple and a frantic crowd. I like to pick up knicknacks at Kanaya Brush nearby.
Tsukiji Outer Market – the remnant of the once-huge wholesale fish market. Still great. Oliver’s favorite knife shop is still there, and that’s saying something. Azuma Minamoto no Masahisa
My sons would add a couple of things if they were here – First, the food at 7-11 is really good, and it is your primary source for ATMs that will work. Second, eat the food at train stations. Your credit card will get you on the subways – no need to buy a card.
Your favorite train line will be the Yamanote (Green) which is a big circle around the things you want to see. Slower than others, so the locals avoid it. But it works for you.
Kyoto
The train to Kyoto is an experience in itself. Get a seat on the Mt. Fuji side – they may offer it to you if they see your American face. Buy a sushi bento in the train station.
Ryokan – A japanese bathhouse is a mandatory experience. My favorite is Seikoro – which is here. It will be your most expensive hotel. It is worth it. You won’t understand what they’re saying. It doesn’t matter. Definitely have the Kaiseki dinner in your room and the breakfast. But only once. Stay there two nights, and hit the town the other night. Definitely use the public baths.
Your favorite bus line is the
Jonah’s advice on Bath Etiquette
- Put on your Yukata in your room. Here’s how to tie the belt.
- Enter the baths and cough. At this point the people in the bath will conveniently look away.
- Strip and begin to bathe. Do it sitting on the wooden bucket. (Turn the bucket upside-down first.) Be noisy about it. You’re American, so they assume you’re filthy. And by filthy I mean “only bathes once a day.
- At the end of your wash, stand up, fill the bucket, and dump the water loudly over your head. At this point your fellow bathers will conveniently look away. This is your moment to …
- Slip into the bath.
- Let your thoughts wander. Keep them to yourself.
- After a nice long soak, make noises like your getting out. They’ll conveniently turn toward each other.
- Get out, wash again, and put your Yukata back on.
- Go to your room and have your Kaiseki dinner. In your Yukata. Yes, in your Yukata. In bathhouse towns like Kusatsu, you’d be putting on sandals and wandering around town in it.
Other stuff? Aside from an astonishing array of great temples? Here’s another.
Bamboo – Great izakaya
The best Banh Mi I’ve ever had at 120g Banh Mi
Osaka
The junk food capitol of Japan – Birthplace of Cup Ramen, home of Okonomiyaki.
Silver Ball Planet – The best arcade in Japan.
Osaka Castle – Worth the trip. Lots of stairs.
Dotonbori Street – Just dig the scene. And check out the Don Quijote store for a very different approach to retail.
Hiroshima
You might think “Depresso Burgers, hold all the fun stuff.” Not so – a vibrant town, full of craft beer, great food (especially Okonimiyaki)
APA Hotel – you owe yourself the Japanese business hotel experience. Not luxury, just a glimpse of railroad-engineered clean friendly efficiency. This is an especially good one. Check out the Onsen. And the locking washing machines so you can do laundry and go out.
Peace Dome – If more of us had seen this, the world would be safer.
Peace Museum – A great exposition. You will want some quiet time afterward.
Okonomimura – A great junk food dinner. A confusion of choices, in an entire building filled with restaurants serving the same thing. Look for one with a lot of Japanese in it, sit down, and be fed.
Park South Sandwich – A nice place for one of the lighter meals you’ll get here.
Mabui – A great oyster bar. Oysters are a big deal here.
General Stuff
- Learn some Japanese. I relied on the Pimsleur program to learn the basics. It works well for me.
- Don’t eat on the street.
- There are no garbage cans except near vending machines.
- Your ATM is in a 7-11.
- Google maps works really well and will help you figure out transit.
- Bring Naproxen and Lactaid if you need them – you won’t find them in Japan.
- The trains shut down late at night, and you may need a taxi home.
- In a taxi, be prepared to show the driver your destination on a screen – not a lot of english spoken there.
- They drive on the left – Keep your eyes open when stepping off curbs.
- If you’re looking for train info, these guys do it better than me. https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2016.html